How much does the world cost when your target is in sight? For me it was only about 200 Dollars, two hours and a stoned cap driver away.
Belize was not on my bucket list for probably the next decade, but I've spontaneously chosen while traveling through the southeast of Mexico to have an excursion. I wasn't well prepared, but web pages advised of running ferries to the Belizean islands from Mexico. Now there is happy me looking forward to a new country. Fortuna had other plans I didn't know of.
I got off the ADO bus in Chetumal city. My chosen cap looked better on the outside than inside. My personal driver was busy driving, smoking and texting at the same time. The docks looked completely empty. Contrary to the information on the net there were no ferries running. I would have stayed in Mexico, but you were only allowed to enter Belize under one condition- book three nights in advance. By then I've already spent 130 Euro - there was no way of quitting. Next option was the border.
A colorful outfit caught my attention, because I have seen it before. This couple arrived at the imigration office minutes before me- from the same hostel. I've seen these pants the night before in Bacalar. We’ve started chatting away and hoped to share a cap as the prices were about 150-200 dollars to the capital. The fairly small border strip turned out to be a no friendly zone. Groups only move in their groups. No luck for me.
My driver was very different. He told me about all the “truths and political issues” in his country. Did you know that Belizians are not allowed to leave the country? (NOT) Me too. His brother has been shot because of illegal drug sales. While we got to know our stories he started rolling a joint. And another one - and another one. He smoked about one. He gave me one for later. I'd call it a different ride. He managed to drop me off safe and sound in Belize city at the docks and helped me out with the ticket, because tourists always come first in line - but you have to know when you're standing at the very end of the line. Now my wallet was 200 dollars shorter.
I had to overcome some minor obstacles in and before Belize, but it turned out to be a good decision. There is no price tag on friends and new adventures.
My goal is to move from the mainland of Belize to two islands. Some pieces fell into place. It turned out to be an amazing experience in the reserve with fascinating creatures and people. Jump on the boat - it's a nice ride.
Tourists always come first. Even though the Belizean cue at the ferry dock is 100 people strong and you feel really uncomfortable with it, there are some unwritten rules. My stoned cab driver pushed me through the packed waiting hall of the only running ferry company and placed my bag and me in front of the ticket counter. I found my unlucky ride members from the border in the same situation next to me. I feel you.
An hour with all kinds of people on the ferry passed quickly. There was this belizean family with her cute little 4 year old who madly fell in love with my green fluffy pillow to my left. The midlife crisis wife who tried to handle her absolutely smashed husband to my right. I enjoyed the stunning sunset behind me through the boat door. Despite my bright looks I was slowly blending into the locals and I felt at peace.
I was thinking of squeezing some impressions of Ambergris Caye and San Pedro in this passage, but unfortunately I don't have much to say. Accept my plan on leaving this island asap. Brochures and Cards along the late evening stroll opened up some general possibilities but nothing fitted my needs. Due to my one night stay on the island my timespan was pretty short. I contacted several snorkeling companies with barely any luck until the next morning. The owner of a diving company didn't just offer me a full Hol Chan Marine Reserve tour, he offered me a job instead: Become a couple photographer for one day. Who am I to deny this opportunity? I had no other option than being a part of the crew on a private tour. My boss, his son and I left early to pick up the honeymoon couple - turns out they are very good friends and very friendly to me too..
Total package included swimming with sharks, manatees and turtles all along Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Big promise. Nice add on is watching sea horses and playing with manta rays and feeding huge fish. You have probably seen turtles along your trips and fed fish before, but swimming with sharks is a little different. On one side they are these silent creatures floating tru the sea, on the other side their cold eyes pierce right through you and give you goosebumps even in the water. Luckily my boss brought some fish to feed them. My job was to try to make the best underwater holiday pictures of my lovely couple from the states and try not to offer my body as a snack to the sharks. Souls left bodies audible every time a fishy skin touched human skin. Surprisingly - we all survived.
The colors of air and sea changed: the turquoise blue of the sky turned dark and the sea light blue. A thunder made its way to us. One of my most favorite pictures was created then. All six of us were trying to stay dry, but failed miserably. Pina Colada and Pineapple lit up our stay. We decided to hop into the ocean, as the water was warmer and the raindrops didn't hurt as much. Time passed - we moved on. Next stop: manatees. We got lucky on the first shot. My boss clearly knows his job. Right below our stop we saw two manatees floating above the ground about 8 meters down. Must watch - they are breathtaking. Even when they move their huge size zero+ bodies in slow motion to the surface they resemble pure satisfaction and peace. We should all cut ourselves a bit of that tasty seaweed pie and be more confident.
I was thinking of squeezing some impressions of Ambergris Caye and San Pedro in this passage, but unfortunately I don't have much to say. Accept my plan on leaving this island asap. Brochures and Cards along the late evening stroll opened up some general possibilities but nothing fitted my needs. Due to my one night stay on the island my timespan was pretty short. I contacted several snorkeling companies with barely any luck until the next morning. The owner of a diving company didn't just offer me a full Hol Chan Marine Reserve tour, he offered me a job instead: Become a couple photographer for one day. Who am I to deny this opportunity? I had no other option than being a part of the crew on a private tour. My boss, his son and I left early to pick up the honeymoon couple - turns out they are very good friends and very friendly to me too.
Set and Setting are important while traveling and rarely come along at the same time. Caye Caulker's cocktail mix of special people and vibe made the trip worth it.
Caye Caulker seems to be a little gem hidden in the second largest reef on the planet. There are no cars around- just golf carts and bicycles. Time seems to run slower on this island. Everyone was walking around barefoot. From one side to the other side of the island it’ll take about 20 minutes by foot. Caye Caulker is split into halves split by a strong stream. I was looking for exactly that vibe. That one special place where time, bucket list and money doesn't matter.
People and travelers bring charm and life to its accommodation. Same with Bella's Backpackers. It's cheap, rarely clean, but it has charme. Luckily I was running into my two friends from the border and docks in Belize city. These two had a fair share of my great time being on Caye Caulker. Their story is quite interesting: travel the world for the next 5-7 years, enjoy life together and maybe find a forever home somewhere.
We decided to go for a free kajak tour the next day- sponsored by our hostel. Our target was to discover the other island by water and go for a hike. The raft tru the islands was some fun. On the shore you have rays swimming alongside the boat. We managed to find what seems to be a private wooden jetty with a swing and freshly cut fish with only its head left. Some time later we went for some exercise again - the raft backwards. We found a small patch of sand to park our kajak. With a backpack and water we walked through the small island. Rumors said there is a hiking trail on this island. We weren't able to find it - just a sandy path with no shade and nothing nice along the way. For 40 minutes we were still hoping, but decided to go back as the midday sun was hot.
Half way back we found a hotel with a beach bar. A cold beer was almost worth the trip. Back in our kajak we were headed to the big fish. They don't show up on empty hands- greedy creatures. Bring some tasty gifts if you want to see them. The edge of the island is a perfect sundowner spot with a bar, food and chairs in the water. Along the end you can jump off a diving platform. As usual - it's not as high as it looks from the top.
We finished our daily activityíes with a freshly caught lobster in a restaurant. Our hostel family gathered again by the time it got dark. We and a couple of other people enjoyed the mild night with some exciting games of spike ball, connect four XXL and cold beer. I’ve decided to stay one more night, depart the next day and age just a bit slower than the rest of the world. Two tattoos now decorate my arms and will always remind me of my time with special friends.
FInding yourself in questionable situations does happen from time to time. I've figured Belize city gave me, due its poverty, homeless people and safety reasons, big chills.
Time to move on - as I only have three days left for my flight back home. I found myself a British compagion for the last days traveling. One more night in Belize - now in the capital. As I was the only one being motivated to discover the city I made my way downtown along old wooden houses with closed blinds. Every second house had at least two dogs running around in their yards. Seems like they are very protective over their possessions, right? There were hardly any people around till I reached the center. Homeless people watched me go. It felt like every eye locked onto this white European woman walking around alone. Gates were locked everywhere, fences were high and cars were too dark and slow. Houses looked empty, but in my guts I felt there is more going on than I can see from the outside. I couldn't shake the feeling that eyes followed me around for 1.5hrs.
Two boys of about 6 and 8 started walking in my shoes and were nagging me. Within seconds I became a Mom and my kids demanded food and money now. They seemed to be very hungry, supposably because I haven't fed them in ages. Our fun game of catch went on for 15 minutes until they gave up. Suddenly they downgraded me from being a their Mom to a b*tch and everything else imaginable. Lucky me. I wasn't ready to be a single mom of two just yet.
My hotel greeted me with more safety, protection than the outside world. Even though Jack Nickolson might be waiting with an ax behind a door or some twins will pop up at the end of the hallway. It wasn't nice, but another important experience.
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